The renowned Alba white truffle. Alluring Barbaresco and Barolo wines. The delicate stuffed pasta,
agnolotti di plin
Just three local culinary delights from Piedmont in Northern Italy that come to mind.
One of Piedmont’s less renowned culinary offerings, nonetheless, is Testun di Barolo. This cheese, made from a blend of cow and goat milks and matured using grape skins, serves as an illustration of
formaggio ubriaco
"Drunken cheeses" conserved in wine and spirits. Testun is also Piedmontese slang for a stubborn individual, making it a fitting moniker for a restaurant dedicated to preparing Italian cuisine in its own style.
What was your reaction when you heard that the Trequattrini family launched their bold Beaufort Street osteria three years back?
In general, patrons of the restaurant could be divided into two camps: those who were deeply attracted to Testun’s extravagant interior design and eclectic music mix that blended the energy of a Saturday-night nightclub with the warmth of a Sunday-afternoon family gathering at their grandmother’s house.
And those traditionalists who held onto their rosary beads when they saw fermented soy butter and "hulk sauce" featured on the menu, along with the term
stronzo
on the welcome mat.
My first impression of Testun was somewhat divided; I valued the underlying idea but found myself overwhelmed by the music, vibrant bursts of color, and intricately composed plates—sometimes less truly felt like more.
I'm uncertain whether I've become softer or if the restaurant itself has changed, but Testun now seems like a gentler, more accessible version of what it was when it burst onto the Beaufort Street dining scene around 2022. While you'll likely hear as many four-on-the-floor basslines as you would at an ordinary eatery, the atmosphere no longer screams "rave."
Crowds include plenty of young adults in their twenties who wear loose, mid-calf trousers and Carharti apparel, but you'll also find many families with stylishly dressed moms, dads, and even grandparents all equipped with practical footwear. These different groups feel equally comfortable, largely due to the welcoming staff headed up by restaurant manager Antonio di Senzo. For insights into the wine selection—a curated assortment of low-intervention beverages that share the venue's playful vibe—Antonio is your go-to source.
Testun’s cuisine now has a slightly more refined and intentional flavor. The previous exuberant international flair characteristic of the kitchen’s early creations has been replaced by dishes prepared with abundance and an exploration into how globalization influences culinary traditions.
la cucina vera
This isn’t outdated Italian cuisine stuck in an old lady’s pantry for ages; instead, it’s modern Italian cooking nurtured in Australia yet exposed to global influences through the internet. In fact, Chef Christopher Caravella, despite dedicating over ten years to his family’s renowned Freo eatery Capri, credits his early experiences enjoying meals from local eateries and takeaway spots with helping mold his taste preferences.
The skewered piece of folded mortadella drizzled with a tangy barbecue sauce, accompanied by thin slices of bright yellow turmeric-pickled cucumbers, pays tribute to a well-known global fast-food chain dominated by a clown known as Ronald. The combination of maple syrup and Vegemite adds sweetness and saltiness to the creamy butter served next to soft, pillowy focaccia reminiscent of panettone bread.
The unfortunate part: Team Testun no longer produces their signature Umbrian-style salumi featured on their initial menu. However, the positive side is they've convinced butcher Nathan Marinelli from Lot 24 to craft exclusive, globally inspired sausages specifically for the eatery. Currently, the culinary team is busy preparing these distinctive creations.
salsiccia di pollo alla Siamese
over its charcoal grill: Thai-inspired chicken snags sharp with galangal and lemongrass. Is Perth’s dining scene entering some sort of sausage factory golden era?
The signs are promising
.
Asian cuisine forms the basis for herb-crusted lamb rump slow-cooked in licorice root and presented over a base of prepared coix—a pale, barley-esque grain often referred to as Job’s tears. Should an award-winning Italian chef be asked to reinterpret Malaysian-inspired dishes,
bak kut teh
For the business class menu on ITA Airways (RIP Alitalia), it would likely resemble this. And that’s a positive thing.
Sometimes, the kitchen's inventiveness goes overboard. I expect some diners might find the hot fermented chili on the spicy tuna crostini too intense for their taste. The combination of crispness and smokiness from the charcoal-grilled spaghetti—a modern twist on something fiery—may also be polarizing.
spaghetti all’assassina
– left me confused.
It speaks volumes about the vitality of Caravella’s cuisine that minor slip-ups have not discouraged my repeated visits, particularly since venturesome dishes often result in triumphs akin to a delectable warm rice pudding featuring poached pear slices infused with fennel alongside crunchy clumps of caramelized cornflakes reminiscent of Honey Joys. In an era where many eateries appear hesitant to experiment with their menu offerings, such audacious creativity deserves recognition and praise.
Despite Testun’s rebellious nature, it still adheres to numerous Italian dining principles. You can enjoy an authentic Caesar salad here. The narrative revolves around family ties and collaborations, with particular emphasis on Di Sanzo’s partner and pasta artisan Marta Rosati, as well as Caravella’s love interest Martina Ciotti, who contributes both sweetness and strength to the culinary team.
Primarily, just as any respectable local Italian eatery should, Testun offers great value with generous portions. An order of focaccia provides four substantial servings. Sausage dishes typically include two per serving. Consequently, leftovers are almost guaranteed. In fact, the sight of patrons departing with takeaway boxes might lead one to think that Testun has partnered with delivery platforms. Maybe my initial assumption was incorrect. Sometimes, abundance truly does mean having even more than expected.
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