This Charming Spanish Village Has Got Tourism Spot-On

I start this tale at a cemetery. To be sure, it is an impressive cemetery, perched right at the summit. Spain ’s highest pueblo blanco Or the picturesque whitewashed village, offering breathtaking vistas stretching eastward across the mountains, with the glittering Mediterranean Sea visible to the south.

The walls, adorned with plastic blooms and photos of the departed, shine brilliantly white under the evening sun. My gaze is drawn to one particular spot as I notice something unusual for this place: a line of commemorative plates dedicated to Britons who resided in the village named Comares and played a part in enhancing its community and wealth.

Then we have Ernie, the electrician who resembled Father Christmas. Also notable is Dennis, the ex-London car salesman with a position on the local council.

There’s room for some additional people, but I won’t be among them. Since 1999, I've owned a home in Comares, yet I'm putting it up for sale now.

And I'm not the only one. Ever since the Spanish Prime Minister made a threat, 100 percent tax on properties owned by non-European Union citizens In January, the news has been quite grim. According to newspaper reports, Spain aiming to " penalize" British property owners. And if that isn't sufficient, we also have the anti-tourism protests .

It appears that the long-standing romantic relationship between Spain And the relationship between British tourists and homebuyers has reached a bitter conclusion.

However, that memorial wall conveys a distinct narrative. The same goes for Comares.

Let's pinpoint your location. It's a one-hour drive to the east of here. Malaga In a grand, mountainous region named Axarquía, which isn’t widely recognized, I expressed my interest in writing about this place. "Can you spell that?" asked a woman from the Spanish Tourist board when I mentioned the area. Indeed, she herself was Spanish.

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Intrepid foreigners have been finding a refuge here since the late 1980s. My friend Clair has lived in the village since she came here as a teenager and still rarely gets off the mountain. In fact, before the EU funded a new road up here and a bus service, there were some elderly people from Comares who never had.

The Independent ’s Simon Calder He asked me to describe the village not long after we purchased our home back in 1999. I was quite possessive over it. The area is incredibly picturesque, but you can imagine what occurs to such stunning locations that are conveniently close to multiple international airports.

Therefore, I pleaded with Simon to have him lead the article. Please Do Not Visit Comares — which, being an honorable gentleman, he fulfilled.

Ever since then, I've had regrets about that headline. The piece was quite sarcastic, drawing a stark contrast between the village and overcrowded tourist spots such as Ronda and Frigiliana. However, similar to numerous countryside communities, Comares saw an aging and dwindling populace. It didn’t take long for me to understand that, regardless of what those "enthusiasts" mentioned previously claimed, Comares actually requires visitors.

The town hall put significant effort into beautifying the village. Paths previously made of concrete or dirt were transformed into cobblestone ones. A ceramics cooperative crafted appealing interpretive signage detailing the village’s history since its days as an Arab fortress. Below the village, they created numerous additional parking spots. However, each year saw these spaces remain unoccupied. Only occasionally did a few adventurous tourists travel uphill from the coastline for Sunday trips; finding parking never posed much difficulty then.

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I stroll along the pathway leading away from the graveyard (it's confined and slender—Comares is essentially car-free, despite what the nearby farmers might think). Spring has arrived, and typically this place would be quite still. However, as I get closer to the central square, sounds reach my ears—a mix of chatter, melodies, and the clinking of glassware and dishware.

This is strange.

The main square is packed. Waiting staff carrying coffees, beer, salads and plates of fried fish run to and fro between the Bar La Plaza and Robert's, its adjoining restaurant. The courtyard of the hotel, Verde Olivia, is doing good business, too.

At the Balcon viewpoint, tourists are gathering to admire the vistas stretching out towards the coastline and, further to the east, the impressive bulk of La Maroma, the prominent local mountain.

A group of young mountaineers with their equipment trek uphill towards the plaza. A woman from the newly opened souvenir store rushes out shouting "Mira! Mira!" to them. She offers olive oil and local wine for sale.

Oh my God! They've finally found Comares. I look down the hill. No chance. There's nowhere to park.

While locals from the Canaries Up in these mountain regions, an alternative, more peaceful, sophisticated, and welcoming style of countryside hospitality is finally becoming established, unlike down by the Costas where people march furiously towards the shores, shooting water pistols at tourists as they try to regain access to their beaches.

What has occurred? For starters, COVID-19. Elena Roji Montero, a local councilor, mentions that this situation affects her community members. explored their local area extensively Following extended periods of confinement, an increasing number of Spaniards and expatriates are embarking on the lengthy journey upwards from the flatlands.

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A charming Belgian lady called Sofie is purchasing our home with the intention of combining it with her other two properties on the same narrow street. This village’s lanes have undergone transformations for over a millennium now. Sofie intends to establish a boutique offering "locally sourced oddities, retro treasures, Bohemian-style garments, handcrafted pottery, and petite items that narrate tales from Andalusia." Elena approves: "We could use additional stores like this!"

It’s quite an Andalusian tale. Since the time of the Phoenicians, various groups have passed through these hills. An old acquaintance of mine, a former Spanish teacher living in a valley not far from Torrox, shared this with me. "In this area, locals really appreciate tourists and foreigners," he says. "Many people around my age recall the extreme hardship faced by their grandparents. As visitors settle down and turn into residents, they tend to hire local craftsmen and help sustain traditional arts and products."

Perhaps an appropriate title for this article might be "Join Us at Comares?" This time around, you're guaranteed both a bed and a delicious meal, but remember—it would be wise to reserve your spot ahead of time, which differs from past years.

Who knows, you might even stay forever.

Getting there

Many airlines fly from the UK to Malaga, including Jet2 , British Airways , Vueling and easyJet. The flight duration is approximately 3 hours, and Comares is about a 1-hour drive from Malaga. While you can find buses connecting the village with both Velez Malaga and Malaga city, renting a vehicle offers more convenience.

Where to stay

The top choice for both hotels and restaurants is Verde Olivia located on the plaza. For alternative dining options, you can try Roberts or enjoy views along with good meals at Mirador de la Axarquia.

Walking and cycling here are amazing. A zipline spans the mountain range, and Comares is rapidly turning into a hotspot for rock climbers.

For more information, visit turismocomares.es

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