Once,
Kyrgyzstan
was a vast expanse of uninterrupted steppes inhabited by nomadic tribes that followed the changing seasons. When it eventually became part of the Mongol Empire during the 13th century, significant portions of the terrain had undergone transformation due to various influences.
Silk Road
.
Bishkek, which serves as the nation's contemporary capital today, held significance as a key trading hub along the 6,437-kilometer Eurasian route.
In the late 1800s, Kyrgyzstan came under the rule of the Russian Empire. Later, during the formation of the Soviet Union, Bishkek evolved into an urban landscape filled with factories and monumental structures. During my walk through downtown one day, I unexpectedly found myself face-to-face with a towering 30-foot marble monument dedicated to Vladimir Lenin; he stood with his arm raised high as though guiding them towards advancement and tomorrow.
Today, Bishkek — situated in a valley near the border with Kazakhstan at the foothills of the Tian Shan mountains — stands as an anomaly. This Soviet-inspired, Asian urban center boasts broad avenues, residential complexes, public structures, bustling marketplaces, and abundant greenery. Tourists often leave quickly to venture into the nearby mountains, thus missing the opportunity to experience a city where life unfolds day-to-day rather than just being a backdrop for visits.
Stretching across Central City, Erkindik Avenue lined with lush foliage serves as a meeting spot for residents seeking respite under the canopy of trees. It’s not uncommon for summertime temperatures to soar above 30°C; however, winters can be quite harsh, often plummeting to a frigid -6°C.
It's unexpectedly serene. While walking down the avenue during the late afternoon as the sun dipped below the horizon, I noticed a throng assembled on the northern edge of the park. They were packed within a enclosed section featuring a large outdoor chess zone, which dates back to Soviet times.
They had their eyes on withered players, bent over aged game boards, passing around piping hot flasks of tea as they observed.
The offers of tea seemed inviting, but my quest was for coffee. I was pointed towards a nearby stall where the barista rattled off an overwhelming array of coffee beans and preparation techniques. Without asking for my preference, she picked out a smooth and sugary dark-roasted Arabica bean sourced freshly from India. The price was merely 55 som (50p).
I headed north towards Ala-Too Square, the expansive Soviet-period public space from where the city seems to spread outwards. There, a DJ was blasting intense electronic tunes from an enormous stage, attempting to captivate the audience as their arms moved wildly about.
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Nonetheless, her crowd primarily consisted of families accompanied by their young children, who had actually arrived for the evening fountain performance and found themselves bewildered by the disorganized spectacle. Nearly every night I spent in Bishkek, there were complimentary events held at Ala-Too Square.
Her performance was later followed by "Rule, Britannia!" with enthusiastic aerial views showcasing the water fountains illuminated by vivid lights. Despite finding it somewhat absurd, I found myself laughing uncontrollably; meanwhile, the families and kids were rolling with laughter as they got drenched by the sprays from the fountains.
Completely soaked, I made my way to Save The Ales, a crowded bar featuring an expansive terrace adorned with twinkling fairy lights. For 171 som (£1.50), I got a glass of hazy artisanal blonde lager, and before long, I was chatting with some local folks who then asked me to join them at a rave.
I appeared visibly confused. "Do you believe we're all still nomads?" asked a tattoo-covered Kyrgyz woman with a smile spreading across her face.
It turns out that the city has no lack of spots for electronic music, ranging from various types of venues.
Combinate/Plur
To the Old Soviet Bunker she went. Her companion chimed in, "This town reminds me of Berlin; Bishkek never rests." Despite this, I had to head back to my hotel.
Even though I set off for Ala-Archa National Park early, which is about an hour's drive south from the city, the temperature had already climbed to 25°C. The taxi fare only amounted to £5, and surprisingly, finding one upon my return wasn’t much harder than hailing it initially.
Founded in 1976, this park boasts an abundance of wildlife including ibex, wild boars, roe deer, and martens coexisting with foxes, wolves, golden eagles, and even snow leopards. The entry fee is 500 som (£4.50) for each vehicle, or 150 som (£1.40) for pedestrians.
The park's name means "Bright Juniper," a tree revered by the Kyrgyz people and a tribute to the lush juniper covering its hillsides in a striking blue-green color.
Multiple paths weave through the wooded mountainside within this national park, which forms part of the majestic Tian Shan chain. I opted for the Waterfall Trail, a leisurely 3-kilometer route where I met with minimal foot traffic. Along my journey, a nearby family welcomed me to join them at their picnic spot, generously sharing their meal with me.
kurut
, dried clusters of soured milk that are prevalent throughout Central Asia.
When I returned to the city, my quest continued for additional sustenance. Pinpointing a specific national cuisine in Kyrgyzstan proved challenging. The place called Navat came nearest to offering an authentic traditional dining experience from Kyrgyzstan.
I ordered “local”
beshparmek
which, technically, is a Kazakh dish: thin slices of horse meat served with a dough-like pasta, potatoes, and broth. Along with a shot of fermented yoghurt and a 200ml carafe of Russian vodka, I left just 800 som (£7) lighter.
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I walked over to the State History Museum, constructed in 1925 near Ala-Too. The museum's caretakers have deliberately avoided focusing excessively on Soviet history, choosing instead to highlight Kyrgyzstan’s national narrative.
For just 200 som (£1.80), I discovered relics from the Stone Age and petroglyphs dating back to the Bronze Age, most of which remain intact in the southern part of the nation. The site also featured elaborate exhibits focused on nomadic traditions, along with ethnographic displays showcasing stunning jewelry. Additionally, there was an authentic yurt encampment equipped with a lifelike wax figure of a horse—a piece of history now integrated into Kyrgyzstan’s adventure tourism sector.
Right next to the museum, I came across Panfilov Amusement Park where kids were shooting darts at balloons for big stuffed teddy bears and cotton candy as prizes. Meanwhile, teens were aiming air rifles at circular targets, and older folks were attempting to toss beanbags through holes carved into wooden boards. The promise of a 22-som ($20 pence) entry fee for a spin on the massive Ferris wheel was too tempting for me to resist.
As the sun dipped towards the edge of the world, I ascended gradually into the heavens. The last light brushed over the mountaintops, painting them with hues of twilight. In my mind’s eye, I envisioned ancient nomadic tribes traversing the vast steppes below. Yet when night fell, Bishkek burst forth with myriad luminous points, and activities recommenced under the starlit sky.
How to get there
Pegasus Airlines provides flights from London through Istanbul to Bishkek, whereas Air Asthana offers routes via Almaty in Kazakhstan.
Where to stay
The city-centre
Orient Hotel
has B&B from £65.
More information
discoverkyrgyzstan.org
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