I Sought Britain's Perfect Pint—and Found It in the Most Unexpected Place

Journeying to 30 locations across Britain in search of the finest brews seems like an ideal assignment—until someone inevitably prompts you for your favorite spot. Do you opt for the safe choices such as Sheffield, Manchester, or Bristol—the cities people won’t argue about? Or do you choose the unexpected ones like Cheltenham, Thanet, or Chester?

Maybe there’s a place that merges both elements. It might feel like cheating, but if you package them together Leith while in Edinburgh, similar to our approach during research for a new book, Beer Breaks in Britain Sure thing! Leith is akin to an unexpected second layer in a box of chocolates, where, unlike typical boxes, the contents differ from those above them.

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You may have to add another day for exploring. Scottish capital’s properly located in a seaside suburb, however, you'll return home feeling satisfied after sampling plenty during your visit, having experienced the extensive range of British beer culture. This includes everything from classic cask ales to vividly hopped IPAs and unusual sour beers that the country’s brewing scene offers.

Other towns may offer a comparable selection due to the craft movement that has introduced new breweries andbeer varieties to virtually every part of the UK. However, I found Edinburgh To possess a powerful sense of location. No matter which pub, bar, or taproom you visit, you always remember that you are in Edinburgh.

There is a particular standard of service present, along with a genuine concern for both customers and their beers, which I discovered to be reliably superior to others. It was these establishments that reaffirmed my perspective. why the Scottish capital surpasses every other town and city on a beer tour of Britain.

Upon reaching Edinburgh Waverley Station, a brief walk over Princes Street will lead you to your destination. Guildford Arms , a tavern that has retained all its late-Victorian grandeur. Look up at the stunning rococo ceiling before shifting your attention to the bar, where the variety of cask and craft beers might tempt you to stay for hours.

However, no. Since you're close to Rose Street, which is New Town's pedestrianized thoroughfare—formerly the city's premier spot for bar hopping and remains bustling with pubs and eateries. The top choice here would be the Abbotsford , featuring an impressive, island-like bar adorned with handpumps and faucets.

Then on to the Oxford Bar , a place frequented by Inspector Rebus (and his creator, Ian Rankin, whom you might run into here) and deeper within the alleyways, lies an area unfairly overlooked. Kay’s Bar , a quirky hideaway bathed in red light and frequented by friendly locals.

Underneath the crowded Royal Mile, the Salt Horse It’s a contemporary small beer cafe offering an escape from the throngs, along with an impressive selection of craft beers available on draft and in bottles.

Sandy Bells , behind the National Museum is a traditionally local spot, famous for its folk music gatherings, whereas Cold Town House Spread across three levels of a previous church at the intersection of Grassmarket, ascend to the rooftop garden for a glimpse of the Castle as you enjoy Cold Town’s exclusive beverages.

Close to the vegetation of The Meadows, the Cloisters Bar is located within an ancient parsonage, whereas adjacent to Haymarket station, one can revel in the Edwardian grandeur of Ryrie’s Bar Just around the bend, tucked away behind a slender storefront, lies the place. Wee Vault , where you can taste a broad selection of Vault City Brewery’s tart beers.

That’s when you start feeling that growing, magnificent realization that there remains an additional tier of Edinburgh pub settings yet to be discovered.

Of course, Leith boasts its distinct character, functioning as the harbour for Scotland’s capital city, where the waters of the Firth of Forth meet those of the North Sea.

If you choose to walk instead of riding the tram, you can stop forrefreshments at the vibrant and well-lit spot. Old Eastway Tap Or take a detour through the gluten-free beer garden. Bellfield Brewery — and if you’re lucky, you might understand what The Proclaimers were referring to in their song. Sunshine on Leith As the sun sets in the late afternoon, its light sparkles upon the tranquil harbor waters.

Leith boasts at least four craft breweries. Newbarns Is likely the most recognized, located off an unassuming pathway behind Bob’s Garage, where you'll discover all the trendy folks relaxing in the taproom.

Moonwake houses itself in an ancient warehouse further within Docklands, offering a vibrant taproom located on a mezzanine level above the brewery, providing Pilot welcomes visitors for tours and tastings on Saturdays.

Campervan began business brewing in a campervan – craft beer is full of tales like this – and now not only has a proper brewery and taproom but a bar on the waterfront called Lost in Leith where it ages beers in giant oak barrels known as foeders.

Leith also boasts fantastic pubs. It has a charmingly eccentric vibe. Carriers Quarters, the comfy Malt & Hops , Teuchter’s Landing , which appears to jut out over the water's edge, Innis & Gunn and best of all The Dreadnought It’s quite a short stroll from Leith’s primary sights towards what appears to be just another typical pub at a street corner. However, this place stands out with its superior selection of brews, particularly those sourced from the Brass Castle Brewery located in County Durham, which happens to be managed by the owner's sibling. Additionally, they enjoy putting their own creative twist on how they customize their beer pumps.

The atmosphere here is welcomingly warm. However, this intense warmth was unwelcome for others, leading them to express their discontent by covering the walls with homophobic graffiti out of frustration over the pub embracing all types of sexuality and gender identities. In keeping with its bold name, the Dreadnought remained steadfast against bigotry and proudly made sure everyone knew where they stand.

These are precisely the sort of destinations that beer can lead you to. During my research, Beer Breaks In Britain, every place showcased its distinct personality, making it hard to favor one over the others. That is, until someone manages to twist your elbow into trying them all.

Phil Mellows is a co-author of the new book "Beer." Breaks in Britain: 30 locations to discover and enjoy great ale (Bloomsbury Conway, £20.00). You can purchase it now. .